Jon Boat Bass Boat Build: Your Ultimate DIY Conversion Guide

Are you tired of the high cost of a factory bass boat but crave its features and functionality? You’re not alone. Many anglers face the same dilemma: they want the specialized features of a bass boat without the staggering price tag that often exceeds $20,000. The solution? A jon boat bass boat conversion is the process of transforming a simple, flat-bottomed jon boat into a fully-equipped, fishing-ready machine with features like casting decks, livewells, and advanced electronics. It’s a cost-effective project that offers unparalleled customization for the serious angler.

This definitive guide will walk you through the entire process, from planning and budgeting to the final touches, ensuring your build is safe, functional, and built to last. Whether you’re a weekend warrior or a tournament angler on a budget, converting a jon boat into a bass boat might be the most rewarding project you’ll ever undertake.

Why Convert a Jon Boat into a Bass Boat? (The “Why” Before the “How”)

Before we dive into the nuts and bolts of the conversion process, it’s important to understand why this project makes sense for so many anglers. The benefits extend far beyond just saving money.

Cost-Effectiveness vs. Buying New

The financial advantage of a jon boat conversion cannot be overstated. A new bass boat from a major manufacturer typically starts around $20,000 and can easily exceed $50,000 for high-end models. Even used bass boats in good condition often command $10,000-$15,000.

By contrast, a quality used jon boat can be purchased for $1,000-$2,500, and even with all the materials for a professional-grade conversion, your total investment will likely fall between $2,000 and $5,000. That’s a fraction of the cost of a factory bass boat, leaving you more money for quality fishing gear, electronics, or simply more fishing trips.

Ultimate Customization for Your Fishing Style

Factory bass boats are designed for the “average” angler, but your fishing style is unique. When you build your own jon boat bass boat, you create a vessel tailored specifically to how you fish.

Stand-up fishing enthusiasts can build a higher, more spacious front deck.
Fly fishermen can optimize for unobstructed backcasting.
Multi-species anglers can create versatile storage solutions for different tackle types.
Tournament fishermen can prioritize livewell size and placement for optimal fish care.

This level of personalization simply isn’t available with off-the-shelf boats, no matter how much you’re willing to spend.

The Satisfaction of a DIY Project

There’s an undeniable pride that comes from catching fish from a boat you built with your own hands. Every time you step onto that casting deck or open a storage compartment you designed, you’ll experience the satisfaction of having created something functional and beautiful. This connection to your equipment enhances the entire fishing experience in ways that money can’t buy.

Planning Your Jon Boat Bass Boat Build

Proper planning separates successful conversions from disappointing projects that never get finished. Rushing into construction without a solid plan is the most common mistake DIY boat builders make.

Choosing the Right Jon Boat Platform

Not all jon boats are created equal when it comes to conversion potential. Here’s what to look for:

Hull Material: Aluminum is the preferred choice for most conversions due to its durability, light weight, and resistance to corrosion. Look for welded seams rather than riveted for greater strength and leak resistance.
Size Considerations: A 16-foot jon boat (often designated as 1648, meaning 16 feet long with a 48-inch bottom) is widely considered the ideal platform. It offers sufficient space for front and rear casting decks while remaining trailerable and manageable for a single angler. Fourteen-foot boats can work but feel cramped, while 18-footers offer more space but require more power and are heavier to trailer.
Weight Capacity: Check the manufacturer’s plate for maximum weight capacity. Remember that your modifications—decking, framing, storage, gear, and people—all count toward this limit. A higher capacity provides more flexibility in your build.

Essential Tools and Materials Checklist

Gathering everything you need before starting will keep your project moving smoothly:

Tools:
– Angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs
– Jigsaw with metal and wood-cutting blades
– Drill/driver with assorted bits
– Measuring tape, square, and level
– Clamps (various sizes)
– Socket and wrench sets
– File and deburring tool

Materials:
– Marine-grade plywood (½” for decks, ¼” for side panels)
– Aluminum angle (1″x1″ and 2″x2″ for framing)
– Stainless steel screws, bolts, and nuts
– Marine-grade carpet or non-slip coating
– Marine sealant (3M 5200 or similar)
– Wiring, switches, and fuse blocks
– Bilge pump and plumbing components
– Swivel seat bases and pedestals

Creating Your Blueprint and Layout

Expert Tip: “Always sketch your design first. Consider weight distribution to maintain stability. A common mistake is building a heavy casting deck too high, making the boat tippy.”

Take measurements of your bare hull and create a scale drawing. Decide where key elements will go:
– Front and rear casting deck heights and sizes
– Livewell location (typically centered for balance)
– Battery storage (often under console or rear deck)
– Storage compartments for rods, tackle, and safety gear
– Console position (if adding remote steering)

Remember that weight distribution is critical. A front-heavy boat will plow through water inefficiently, while a stern-heavy boat may have difficulty getting on plane.

Step-by-Step Build Process

Now for the main event—transforming your plain jon boat into a fully functional jon boat bass boat. Follow these steps methodically for best results.

Step 1: Stripping and Prepping the Hull

Begin with a completely empty boat. Remove all seats, hardware, and any existing wiring. Thoroughly clean the hull inside and out, removing years of grime, algae, and old adhesive. This is also the time to inspect for and repair any leaks.

Pay special attention to the transom—check for rot or weakness if it’s wood, or corrosion and cracks if it’s aluminum. A weak transom can be dangerous, especially when mounting a larger outboard motor. Consider reinforcing it with additional aluminum plate if needed.

Step 2: Building the Framing and Casting Decks

The framing is the skeleton of your conversion and must be both strong and lightweight.

Frame Material: Use aluminum angle (1″x1″ for lighter framing, 2″x2″ for high-stress areas). Aluminum is preferred over wood for its strength-to-weight ratio and resistance to rot.
Construction Technique: Cut pieces to fit the contour of your hull, drilling pilot holes and using stainless steel hardware to assemble. Attach the frame to the boat’s ribs using similar methods.
Decking: Marine-grade plywood is the standard. Treat cut edges with sealant to prevent water intrusion. Cut your deck pieces to fit the frame, leaving appropriate openings for hatches and access points.

Real-world Example: “For my 1648 Jon boat, I used 1″ aluminum angle for the front deck frame to keep weight down while maintaining rigidity. The rear deck, which supports the battery and fuel tank, used 2″ angle for extra strength.”

Step 3: Installing a Livewell and Storage Compartments

A functional livewell is what truly separates a bass boat from a standard fishing boat.

Livewell Selection: You can use a pre-formed plastic livewell or build a custom one using materials like polyethylene. A 20-30 gallon capacity is typical for a 16-foot conversion.
Placement: Center the livewell in the boat fore and aft to help with weight distribution. Ensure there’s adequate access for plumbing and maintenance.
Plumbing: Use a dedicated aerator pump with through-hull fitting, and install an overflow drain. A recirculation timer helps maintain oxygen levels without draining your battery.
Storage: Build compartments under decks for rods, tackle boxes, and safety gear. Use waterproof hatches and consider adding drainage to compartments that might collect water.

Step 4: Wiring for Electronics (Fish Finders, Trolling Motors, Lights)

Proper electrical systems are crucial for functionality and safety.

Power Center: Install a waterproof fuse block in a accessible but protected location. Run a main power cable from the battery with an appropriate circuit breaker.
Switch Panel: Mount a marine-grade switch panel for controlling lights, bilge pump, livewell, and other accessories.
Wiring Practices: Use marine-grade, tinned copper wire—it resists corrosion far better than standard automotive wire. Always run wires through conduit in areas where they might chafe.

Expert Tip: “Use a waterproof fuse block and marine-grade wire. Always run a separate ground wire back to the battery; never rely on the hull as a ground. This prevents electrolytic corrosion and ensures reliable operation of all your electronics.”

Trolling Motor Wiring: For bow-mounted trolling motors, use heavy-gauge wire (typically 6-gauge for 12V, 4-gauge for 24V systems) to minimize voltage drop over the length of the boat.

Step 5: Adding Finishing Touches: Carpet, Seats, and Hardware

The final details transform your project from a construction site to a professional-grade fishing machine.

Carpeting: Use outdoor carpet adhesive specifically designed for marine applications. Apply to both the deck and the carpet back, wait for it to become tacky, then carefully position the carpet. Use a roller to ensure good contact and eliminate bubbles.
Seating: Install swivel seat bases with sturdy mounting plates that distribute weight across the deck framing, not just the deck surface.
Hardware: Install cleats, navigation lights, and any additional rod holders. Use marine-grade stainless steel or aluminum hardware throughout to prevent corrosion.

Jon Boat vs. Bass Boat: Key Differences & Compromises

While a converted jon boat offers tremendous value and customization, it’s important to understand how it differs from a purpose-built bass boat.

Stability and Ride in Rough Water

This is the most significant compromise. Jon boats have flat bottoms, which make them extremely stable in calm water but less comfortable in chop. When waves develop, a V-hull bass boat will cut through them, while a jon boat will tend to pound and slap against the water surface. For fishing protected waters, ponds, and calm rivers, this difference is minimal. For large, wind-swept reservoirs, it can be a significant factor.

Storage and Amenities

Factory bass boats are designed with storage optimization in mind. Every nook and cranny is utilized for tackle storage, rod lockers, or other compartments. While you can build excellent storage into your conversion, it may not match the efficiency of a professionally designed factory boat. Similarly, amenities like built-in coolers, insulated storage, and premium upholstery are more challenging to replicate in a DIY build.

Resale Value Considerations

A well-executed DIY conversion can certainly retain value, especially if documented with photos and receipts. However, it will never have the same resale value as a comparable factory bass boat. Brand recognition, standardized designs, and manufacturer warranties all contribute to higher resale values for production boats. Think of your conversion as creating the perfect boat for you, rather than as a financial investment.

Essential Safety Checks Before Your Maiden Voyage

Before you take your newly converted jon boat bass boat on its first fishing trip, perform these critical safety checks.

Weight Distribution and Stability Test

Load the boat with all your typical gear—tackle, cooler, batteries, and a friend to simulate fishing partner weight. At the dock (not on the trailer), move around the boat deliberately. Stand on the casting decks, move from front to back, and simulate casting motions. Note how the boat responds. If it feels tippy, you may need to adjust deck heights or redistribute weight.

Electrical System and Bilge Pump Check

Water and electricity are a dangerous combination. Double-check all electrical connections for proper insulation and security. Test every circuit—lights, bilge pump, livewell, and electronics. Most importantly, verify that your bilge pump functions automatically when needed. Pour a few gallons of water into the bilge to ensure the float switch activates the pump properly.

Also check that all through-hull fittings (livewell intake and drain, bilge pump outlet) are properly sealed and secure. A small leak at a fitting can sink a boat surprisingly quickly.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What size jon boat is best for a bass boat conversion?
A: A 16-foot jon boat is often considered the ideal starting point, offering a great balance of stability, space for features, and manageable weight. The wider the bottom (measured in inches, like 48, 52, or 60), the more stable the finished boat will be.

Q: How much does it cost to convert a jon boat to a bass boat?
A: Costs vary widely, but a basic, functional conversion can start around $1,500, while a high-end build with a new trolling motor and electronics can reach $5,000 or more. The biggest factors are whether you buy new or used components and how elaborate your design is.

Q: Is a converted jon boat as stable as a real bass boat?
A: For flat, calm water, a properly built jon boat can be very stable. However, a dedicated V-hull bass boat will always handle choppy water and waves more effectively. If you primarily fish protected waters, this difference may be negligible.

Q: Do I need any special skills to do this conversion?
A: Basic carpentry, wiring, and a methodical approach are key. If you can follow instructions, use tools safely, and are patient, you can successfully complete this project. The wiring is often the most intimidating part for beginners, but marine electrical systems are quite simple once you understand the basics.

Conclusion & Next Steps

Building your own jon boat bass boat is one of the most rewarding projects an angler can undertake. By following this guide, you’re leveraging years of collective experience to avoid common pitfalls and create a boat that perfectly suits your fishing style at a fraction of the cost of a factory model.

The journey from a bare jon boat to a fully equipped fishing machine requires patience, planning, and persistence—but the result is worth every moment. You’ll not only save thousands of dollars, but you’ll gain intimate knowledge of every system in your boat, making on-water troubleshooting and future modifications much simpler.

Ready to start your build? Download our free, detailed checklist and materials spreadsheet at https://hidea-outboardmotor.com/jon-boat-conversion-checklist to keep your project on track and on budget. And don’t forget to share your progress with us on social media using #JonBoatBuild—we love seeing your creations come to life!

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CATEGORY: Hidea
DISPLAY_TITLE: Jon Boat Bass Boat Build: Your Ultimate DIY Conversion Guide
SEO_TITLE: Jon Boat Bass Boat Conversion Guide | DIY Build Tips
META_DESC: Transform your jon boat into a bass boat with our expert DIY guide. Save thousands with custom features, casting decks, livewells & pro wiring tips for your build.
IMG_PROMPT: A professionally converted jon boat with front and rear casting decks, marine carpet, swivel seats, and fishing electronics, shown on a calm lake at sunrise with an angler preparing to cast.
IMG_ALT: Completed jon boat bass boat conversion with casting decks and fishing electronics on calm water
IMG_TITLE: jon boat bass boat – Visual
IMG_CAPTION: From basic jon boat to fully-equipped bass boat – this DIY conversion delivers professional results at a fraction of the cost.
IMG_DESC: A 16-foot aluminum jon boat that has been professionally converted into a bass boat with elevated front and rear casting decks covered in gray marine carpet, swivel fishing seats, a bow-mounted trolling motor, and fish finder electronics, photographed on a serene lake at sunrise.
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